Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
Sports are a microcosm of society.
There is no life for girls in team sports past Little League. I got into...
In the seventies we had to make it acceptable for people to accept girls and...
I wanted to use sports for social change.
A system that warehouses people is not the cure for social ills.
I'm a great believer in eccentrically-shaped modern families. Because I've...
I was fat-shamed the other day on a British newspaper. The headline was...